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Radon in Chicago: Why Ground-Contact Units Matter

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Radon in Chicago and the Surrounding Suburbs: Why Ground-Contact Units Matter Most

Radon in Chicago is easy to underestimate because the region feels so built-up and vertical—courtyard buildings, multi-flats, condos, and tight lot lines. But radon doesn’t care what’s happening at street level. It starts below the building, then follows the paths that connect soil to indoor air.

That’s what makes the Chicago metro’s housing mix especially relevant. We don’t just have “homes”—we have a huge number of ground-contact living spaces: finished basements used as family rooms or home offices, garden units that function as full apartments, and split-level lower floors that sit partly below grade. In a high-density area, the same address can include units with very different radon exposure simply because some spaces touch the ground and others don’t.

The big takeaway is simple: if your living space touches the ground—garden unit, basement, lower level, slab-on-grade first floor—it deserves priority testing, whether you’re in the city or in suburbs like Oak Park, Cicero, Evanston, Skokie, Berwyn, Naperville, Schaumburg, or Downers Grove.

Why radon affects both Chicago and nearby suburbs

Radon comes from the ground and can build up indoors, especially in lower levels. In the Chicago area, that means the risk story isn’t “city vs. suburb”—it’s ground-contact vs. not.

It’s about geology and soil gas—not “city vs. country”

Across Chicago and the surrounding communities, radon potential comes down to what’s under the structure and how the building interacts with the ground. Practical factors that influence whether radon moves inside include:

  • Soil and rock conditions (and how soil gas moves)
  • Moisture and drainage patterns around the foundation
  • Foundation type and ordinary gaps/openings
  • Pressure differences that pull soil gas inward (stack effect, HVAC, exhaust fans)

That’s why variability can be house-to-house and block-to-block. Two similar-looking homes in Berwyn might test differently. Two units in the same courtyard building in Evanston can test differently too—especially if one is a garden unit and one is on an upper floor.

Radon Levels in the Greater Chicago Area and Surrounding Communities

Variability is the headline

When people search “radon in suburbs near Chicago” or “Cook County radon,” they usually want a quick answer. What you get in reality is a local picture: trends can help with awareness, but your result depends heavily on the specific unit and whether it’s in contact with the ground.

That’s especially true for garden units and basements in dense neighborhoods—where one building can contain both the highest-priority spaces (ground-contact) and the lowest-priority spaces (upper floors). This holds across Chicago and nearby communities like Oak Park, Cicero, Evanston, Skokie, and Berwyn, and it also applies in farther suburbs like Schaumburg, Downers Grove, and Naperville.

If you want to explore community-level context, start with a local directory and statewide overview:

RadonResources.com user-submitted radon tests in the Chicago, IL area show a pattern residents should take seriously: across 32 submissions from the metro and nearby communities, the average reported level is 7.1 pCi/L (median 7.0 pCi/L).
Specifically, 94% of submissions are at or above 4.0 pCi/L (the EPA action guideline), and 12% are 10 pCi/L or higher. The highest submitted reading in this dataset for the metro is 20 pCi/L.
Because radon can vary dramatically from one house to the next—even on the same street—the takeaway isn’t to guess; it’s to test your specific home, especially if you have a basement, garden unit, crawlspace, or spend a lot of time on the lowest level.
City Submissions Avg pCi/L Median pCi/L % ≥ 4.0 Max
Arlington Heights, IL 5 5.6 5.0 80% 8
Aurora, IL 4 6.8 7.0 100% 8
Naperville, IL 4 6.2 5.0 100% 11
Chicago, IL 3 11.0 11.0 67% 20
Tinley Park, IL 3 7.7 8.0 100% 8
Joliet, IL 3 6.7 7.0 100% 8
Schaumburg, IL 3 4.3 4.0 100% 5

How to interpret aggregated or user-submitted data (and its limits)

Aggregated “testing databases” or user-submitted maps can be useful for spotting patterns, but they’re easy to misread if you don’t account for unit type and building layout:

  • Sampling bias: People often test because they suspect an issue (or during a sale), not randomly.
  • Unit type matters: A third-floor condo result doesn’t represent a garden unit in the same building.
  • Season matters: Winter “closed-house” conditions can produce higher readings than mild-weather testing.
  • Mitigation history: Some homes are already mitigated; results may reflect post-mitigation conditions.
  • Measurement type: Short-term vs long-term tests can tell different stories.

Use community trends as a prompt—not a conclusion. For neighborhood-level browsing and comparisons, see:

Foundation styles common across the metro

Chicago-area buildings span multiple eras and construction styles, and each one creates its own set of “normal” pathways where soil gas can move. You don’t need to diagnose your foundation like an engineer—but understanding the basics helps you test in the right spot and interpret results without overthinking them.

Vintage Chicago housing (city + inner-ring suburbs)

Common building types across Chicago, Cicero, Berwyn, Oak Park, and parts of Evanston/Skokie include:

  • Bungalows (often with basements that get finished over time)
  • 2-flats and 3-flats (basement laundry/mechanical spaces; sometimes garden units)
  • Courtyard buildings (more ground-contact units; shared utility runs)
  • Older brick and masonry foundations (more joints, patches, and penetrations)

In these buildings, basements aren’t just “utility space.” They’re where people put a second TV room, a workout area, a guest bedroom, or a desk when the main floors are tight. Garden units, meanwhile, are a common way renters and owners add livable square footage—exactly why ground-contact testing matters.

Suburban single-family mix

In places like Naperville, Schaumburg, and Downers Grove you’ll see:

  • Brick Georgian colonials (often full basements)
  • Split-levels and raised ranches (lower levels partly below grade)
  • Ranches (basement or slab-on-grade depending on era)
  • Newer slab-on-grade homes (radon can still enter through slabs and penetrations)

Even when a home feels “newer” or more open-plan, radon pathways don’t disappear—they just change shape. Slabs, utility penetrations, and sump areas still connect indoor air to the ground.

Common radon entry points (what to look for)

Radon typically enters where the building meets the ground, including:

  • Sump pits (especially uncovered or loosely covered)
  • Floor cracks and wall-floor joints (cove joints)
  • Utility penetrations (gas line, water line, electrical)
  • Drain tiles and perimeter drainage systems
  • Crawlspaces (vents and soil exposure)
  • Slab joints and control cuts
  • Around floor drains, ejector pits, and cleanouts

You don’t need to “find the crack” to justify testing. Many of these are ordinary features in Chicago-area foundations—especially in older properties throughout Skokie, Oak Park, and Berwyn, and in basement-heavy subdivisions in Downers Grove and Naperville.

Garden units, basements, and split-level homes

If you remember one section, make it this one: ground-contact units are the highest priority for radon testing because they sit closest to the source and usually have the most direct entry routes.

In the Chicago metro, “ground-contact” isn’t a niche scenario—it’s a normal part of how people live. A garden unit can be someone’s primary apartment. A basement can be a teen hangout, an in-law setup, a guest room, or a work-from-home space. Those are exactly the rooms where you want clarity.

Garden unit radon (Chicago classic)

Garden units are common across Chicago and inner suburbs like Evanston, Oak Park, Cicero, and Berwyn. They often have:

  • Below-grade walls
  • Shared mechanical spaces nearby
  • Sump pits and drain tiles in older buildings
  • Limited ventilation compared to upper floors

If you rent a garden unit, it’s reasonable to ask the owner or property manager about prior Radon Testing—and to request testing if it hasn’t been done. If you own a building with a garden level, prioritizing that unit protects the people most likely to have higher exposure.

Basements: finished or unfinished, it still matters

A finished basement family room, home office, or bedroom is a living space—so it should be tested like any other. And even if the basement is unfinished, it can still influence air upstairs through stairwells, ductwork, and ordinary air movement.

Basements worth prioritizing include those with:

  • Sumps or ejector pits
  • Recent “tightening” upgrades (new windows, insulation, air sealing)
  • Persistent dampness (not proof of radon, but commonly overlaps with soil-gas movement)

This comes up constantly in older homes from the city to Skokie, where basements were originally utility-forward and later converted into comfortable daily-use spaces without anyone revisiting indoor air questions.

Split-level and raised ranch homes (suburb favorite)

Split-levels in places like Downers Grove, Schaumburg, and Naperville often have a lower level that’s partly below grade. People sometimes assume “it’s not a basement,” so radon won’t apply. In practice, that lower level can behave like a basement because it shares walls or a floor with soil.

Rule of thumb: If the floor is on or below grade—or the room shares walls with soil—test it.

Testing guidance for dense housing areas

Dense housing changes the logistics. It doesn’t change the principle: test the spaces that touch the ground first, because that’s where radon entry is most likely and where elevated results matter most for day-to-day exposure.

Where to place a test (and why placement matters)

In multi-unit buildings and compact neighborhoods, placement is the difference between a useful result and a confusing one.

Test the lowest lived-in level:

  • Garden unit living area/bedroom
  • Basement family room or basement bedroom
  • Split-level lower family room
  • First-floor slab-on-grade spaces

Avoid placing a test:

  • In kitchens, bathrooms, or laundry rooms (humidity and airflow swings)
  • Right next to exterior doors/windows
  • Directly in front of supply vents or fans
  • In a crawlspace (unless it’s actually used as living space—rare)

If you’re in a Chicago courtyard building—or managing units in Evanston or Oak Park—don’t let convenience push the test into a hallway or utility area that nobody actually lives in. You want the result to represent real exposure in the unit.

Short-term vs long-term: what to choose

  • Short-term tests (2–7 days): Useful for quick screening or real estate timelines.
  • Long-term tests (90+ days): Better picture of typical exposure over time.

Chicago winters often create “closed-house” conditions naturally, which can be helpful for screening because buildings are sealed up. But any season can work—what matters most is following the test instructions and selecting the right level.

Multi-unit buildings: test smart

For condo associations/HOAs and landlords, the most practical approach is usually:

  • Start with ground-contact units
  • Include units next to mechanical rooms or sump locations
  • Consider testing a sample of upper units for comparison, especially if there are open chases

If you manage multiple buildings in Cicero and Berwyn, or you oversee properties spread from Chicago out to Skokie, standardizing your Radon Testing protocol helps you make consistent decisions building-to-building—especially when garden units and finished basements are part of the rental inventory.

Real estate considerations

This is educational information, not legal advice—but these are common, practical realities in Chicago-area transactions, where basements and garden units regularly show up as “bonus space” during tours.

Buyers: build testing into your inspection plan

If you’re buying a bungalow in Chicago, a Georgian in Oak Park, or a split-level in Naperville, radon testing is a straightforward add-on during the inspection window—especially when the space you’ll actually use most is on the lowest level.

Tips:

  • Ask for a radon test on the lowest lived-in level
  • If there’s a garden unit (legal or “in-law”), test that space specifically
  • If the home has a mitigation system already, ask for documentation and consider a follow-up test to confirm performance

Sellers: testing early reduces surprises

A pre-listing test can prevent last-minute negotiations—particularly in homes where the basement is staged as a TV room, guest suite, or office (common across the city and suburbs like Downers Grove and Schaumburg).

Condo buyers and HOAs

Condo situations vary widely:

  • A 3rd-floor unit may have low risk, while the garden unit below may not.
  • Mitigation may involve shared spaces, piping routes, or HOA approval.

If you’re buying a ground-contact condo in Evanston or Skokie, ask:

  • Has the building tested ground-contact units?
  • Any history of mitigation systems?
  • Who is responsible for mitigation if needed (unit owner vs association)?

Renters: how to approach the conversation

If you rent a garden unit in Chicago or Berwyn, you can politely request:

  • Prior radon testing results (if any)
  • Permission for testing (many landlords will agree)
  • A plan to address elevated results if found

Keeping the request tied to the unit’s ground-contact nature (rather than general fear) usually makes the conversation more straightforward: you’re asking to test the space with the most direct connection to the soil, not making assumptions about the whole building.

Mitigation expectations

If testing shows elevated radon, mitigation is usually very doable—especially in the types of basements and slab foundations common across Chicago and nearby suburbs. The practical goal is to address the ground-contact pathway, not to chase every tiny crack.

The most common approach: sub-slab depressurization

A standard system often includes:

  • A pipe routed from under the slab to above the roofline
  • A quiet, continuous fan that creates suction under the foundation
  • Sealing of obvious openings as support, not the primary fix
  • Attention to sump pit covers (tight-fitting, sealed lids are common)

For more detail on methods and system components, see:

How long it takes

In many single-family homes, installation is often completed in one day, though scheduling, electrical work, and routing complexity can add time.

Costs vary—avoid assumptions

Pricing depends on:

  • Foundation style (full basement vs slab vs crawlspace)
  • Sump/drain tile layout
  • Pipe routing in finished spaces
  • Electrical access and exterior placement
  • Multi-unit complexity

That variability shows up everywhere—from older brick homes in Oak Park to split-levels in Schaumburg—so it’s more useful to compare proposed approaches than to chase a single “average.”

Multi-unit buildings need coordination

For condos and apartment buildings in Chicago, Evanston, or Cicero, mitigation can involve:

  • Shared piping chases or utility shafts
  • Coordinating access to multiple units
  • HOA approvals and building rules
  • Testing multiple ground-contact units before and after mitigation

A building-wide plan (test → prioritize ground-contact units → mitigate where needed → confirm with follow-up tests) tends to work best, especially where garden units are lived in year-round.

Brief safety note

If results come back high, follow EPA and Illinois guidance and work with a qualified radon professional to confirm levels and choose the right fix.

FAQ: Ground-contact units, condos, and rentals

Does a first-floor unit need testing if there’s a basement below?
If the basement is below and not living space, the first floor can still be affected—especially if there are open stairwells, utility chases, or air movement from below. Testing the lowest lived-in level is still the priority, and additional testing can be added if needed.

I’m on the 2nd or 3rd floor—can I skip it?
Upper floors often test lower, but “often” isn’t “always.” If there’s a known radon issue in the building, testing your unit can still be reasonable. Ground-contact units remain the first priority.

Can I test in a rental garden unit?
Usually yes, with landlord permission. Many property managers appreciate a clear, documented result. Ask where they prefer placement so the test isn’t disturbed.

If my neighbor tested low, am I in the clear?
Not necessarily. Differences in cracks, sumps, ventilation, and unit layout can change results even next door or downstairs.

Do I need a professional test?
DIY tests can be a good starting point when used correctly. For real estate transactions or when confirming elevated results, professional measurement is common.

Clear next steps checklist

  • Identify ground-contact spaces: garden unit, basement rooms, split-level lower level, slab-on-grade first floor—especially the rooms you actually live in (sleep, work, relax).
  • Prioritize the highest-risk locations first: in Chicago and close-in suburbs like Oak Park, Cicero, Evanston, Skokie, and Berwyn, that often means garden units and finished basements; in Naperville, Schaumburg, and Downers Grove, it’s often basements and split-level lower floors.
  • Choose the right test type: short-term for quick screening; long-term for a better year-round picture.
  • Place the test correctly: lowest lived-in level, away from drafts, windows, kitchens, baths, and vents.
  • Follow closed-house instructions (as required) and don’t disturb the device.
  • Record details: start/end times, weather notes, HVAC use, and which room/level was tested.
  • Review results using EPA/Illinois guidance and don’t over-interpret neighborhood averages—especially when comparing upper floors to ground-contact units.
  • If elevated, plan next steps: confirm with follow-up testing if appropriate and contact a qualified mitigator.
  • For multi-unit buildings: coordinate with your HOA/landlord to test multiple ground-contact units first, then document outcomes for the building.
  • Use local resources to compare context and plan testing across the metro: Chicago, IL and User Submitted Radon Levels.

Radon in Chicago and across the metro isn’t a “city vs suburb” issue—it’s a ground-contact issue. If the space touches the ground, treat it as the priority and test it accordingly.

The Average, High, and Risky Radon Levels

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Radon is a naturally occurring gas, so it’s impossible to make your home radon-resistant for a long time. This gas keeps coming back; that’s why installing a radon mitigation system is essential. But when is the right time to consider radon mitigation? To answer that, knowing the average, high and risky radon levels is crucial.

Understanding Radon Level Measurement Units

Since radon is an invisible, odorless, and tasteless gas, it’s challenging to know if it exists in your home. Not only that, but it is also hard to tell if your home has high radon levels. You might be wondering, how is this gas measured?

The radioactive decay of radium generates radon. Radium is an element which was originally discovered by Pierre Curie, Marie Skłodowska Curie, and G. Bemont2 in 1898. Take note that radioactive elements are unstable. They either hold onto all of their atomic energy in the nucleus or release some of it. The decay in the nucleus is what emits radiation.

One of the most preferred measurements for decay speed in radon is Picocuries per liter of air or pCi/L. This measurement is equal to one trillionth of a curie, abbreviated as pCi. pCi unit is commonly used in the United States since it is required by federal law. The World Health Organization also used it, but they also use the Becquerels unit, whereas one pCi/L equals 37 Bq/m3.

Acceptable and Risky Radon Levels

The truth is, zero is the safest radon level. But since it is pretty challenging to keep your home radon-resistant consistently, there are so-called acceptable radon levels. If the radon levels in your home exceed the number, then that only means they could be risky to your health. 

Acceptable radon levels vary from country to country. However, the World Health Organization has established a generally accepted action level of 100 Bq/m3 or 2.7 pCi/L. If your home has achieved a higher than WHO’s action level, it is advised to take remedial action to mitigate radon. WHO also suggests an upper limit that should not exceed 300 Bq/m3 or eight pCi/L.

Here in the United States, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) established an action level of 4 pCi/L. This measurement is the standard which is a little bit higher than that of the World Health Organization. EPA recommends reducing radon levels to sub-4.0 p/Ci to cut cancer deaths from radon in half.

Many people have died because of lung cancer. People would think that being a smoker or exposing themselves to second-hand smoking are the only reasons. However, a silent killer can also cause a deadly disease. To mitigate radon, installing a radon mitigation system is advised.

radon testing

Long-Term Radon Testing: Why Is It Important?

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It’s almost the end of the year, but still, some people are unfamiliar with what radon can bring to one’s health. To simplify everything, radon is an invisible, tasteless, and odorless gas that can cause lung cancer. The only way to find out if it exists in your home is through radon testing. You might have heard of short-term radon testing, but it is highly recommended to do long-term radon testing as well.

Short-Term vs. Long Term-Radon Testing

You’ll never know if your home is safe from radon unless you conduct a radon test. It is suggested that every homeowner consider it since there are areas in the United States with high radon levels. Even if you hire a licensed radon contractor, they recommend doing the radon testing first.

You can do the radon testing yourself, but if you have never tried it before and you want the results to be more accurate, it would be best to hire a radon professional from your state. Besides, it is ideal for engaging in a real estate transaction. With the radon test results, you can decide whether you want to install a radon mitigation system or not.

But what is the difference between short-term and long-term radon testing?

A short-term radon test allows you to measure radon levels for 2-7 days. It is a faster way to screen your home for radon. With this test, you can identify the existence of the cancer-causing gas, but deciding to install a radon mitigation system based only on short-term tests is not advised since radon fluctuates. A radon mitigation system is only recommended if you have consistent radon levels in your home.

On the other hand, a long-term test allows you to measure radon levels for a minimum of 90 days. Radon contractors recommend this because they can give you an estimate of your home’s annual average of radon. Long-term testing should include both heating and non-heating seasons when doing this test.

Guidelines for Radon Testing

Suppose you are doing the radon test; here are some guidelines that can help you:

  • Always read the instructions that come along with your radon test kits. Make sure to fill out the information needed.
  • You can do a short-term test any time of the year, but it would be best to do it during the heating season. You have to do them both in heating and non-heating seasons for long-term tests.
  • Several factors, such as weather, can affect radon levels in the home. Make sure the weather is fine when doing the radon test.
  • It is advised to do the radon test in the lowest level of your home, such as the basement. Make sure to place the test kit at least 20 inches above the floor. Keep it away from high humidity areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. 

Radon is a dangerous gas, yet some people neglect it. If you want to be safe from its adverse effects, conducting short-term and long-term radon testing is crucial. With radon test, you can tell if your home has consistently high radon levels, helping you decide whether to install a radon mitigation system or not.

Radon Facts: Should You Buy A Home With A Finished Basement?

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Buying a house does not only require money for you to make the purchase worth it. Suppose you are buying a home in no time; you have to decide whether you’re choosing a house with a finished or unfinished basement. You also have to be knowledgeable when investing in properties like this. Later on, you’ll find out why this is an essential factor.

What A Finished Basement Offers

The basement is often referred to in horror movies as a scary place. It is often neglected in homes, but it is an ideal place to bond with your families. You can also make it as storage if you need extra space. When buying a home, many homeowners consider a house with a finished basement. It might be pretty expensive, but here are some things that you can enjoy if your home has it:

  • Centralized HVAC system
  • Comfortable extra space
  • Extra living rooms

A finished basement might offer some advantages, but it also has some downsides. It’s because you need to renovate it if you don’t want serious problems to occur. For instance, you have to open up the walls if the house doesn’t have an HVAC system. You also need to consider it if you plan to install special lighting. However, this could be time-consuming and costly since you need to repair the walls afterward. 

Unfinished Basement: Radon Reduction and Other Advantages

Having an unfinished basement might sound like a hassle for some, but there are attractive benefits that you can enjoy if you choose a house with an unfinished basement. Here are some of them:

Create your dream house.

If you are buying a ready-built house, the previous owner might have placed something you don’t like, especially in the basement area. If it has an unfinished basement, the good thing is you can decide what to do with it, allowing you to create your dream house. 

Detect possible problems.

It is highly recommended to check the house before buying it. Check the basement and see if it has a radon-reduction system that can help you mitigate radon. This way, you can solve even the slightest problem that might create bigger ones if not detected.

Identify the best radon reduction system.

If the basement is unfinished, you can ask your contractor and request the best radon reduction system installed in the place.

Buying a house with an unfinished basement might not sound like a good idea, but it is especially if you want to customize your home. In terms of radon reduction, you can ask your contractor to install the best radon reduction system, which is easier to do in an unfinished basement.

How To Prevent Radon in New Construction

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Suppose you have hired contractors to build a new house for you; it is critical to see if your home will be radon-free. But how can you prevent radon in new construction from entering your home? Find out in this article.

Radon in New Construction: 5 Techniques to Prevent It

Not all home contractors install a radon mitigation system in houses. This is because not all areas where homes are built have high radon levels. Besides, radon mitigation depends on the owner, whether they want to install it or not. If you want a safer home for you and your loved ones, installing a radon mitigation system would be best. 

Check out the following techniques that can be used to make your home radon-free.

Gravel

Ask your contractor to use a 4-inch layer of clean, coarse gravel that will be placed below the “slab” or foundation. This allows radon and other soil gasses to move freely underneath the house. The “airflow layer” or “gas permeable layer” since the loose gravel permits the gasses to circulate.

Junction Box

Another technique to consider is installing an electrical junction box (outlet) in the attic for use with a vent fan. It would be best to conduct long-term radon testing to see if a more robust system is needed.

Plastic Sheeting or Vapor Retarder

Radon contractors can use heavy-duty plastic sheeting (6 mil. polyethylene) or a vapor retarder on top of the gravel. As such, they can prevent the soil gasses from entering the house. In addition, the sheeting prevents the concrete from clogging the gravel layer when the slab is poured.

Sealing and Caulking

One of the popular techniques when preventing radon in new construction is sealing all the cracks, crevices, and other types of openings in the concrete foundation floor. It also includes the slab perimeter crack and walls with polyurethane caulk. If considered, you can prevent radon and other soil gasses from entering the home.

Vent Pipe

The last technique to consider is running a 3-inch or 4-inch solid PVC Schedule 40 pipe. Place it vertically from the gravel layer through your home’s conditioned space and roof. Doing this allows you to safely vent radon and other soil gasses outside above the house.

As the homeowner, you can ask your contractor what radon mitigation system is best for your house. If they don’t have a plan yet, you can recommend the above techniques and ask them to include them to prevent the cancer-causing gas from entering your home.

Should A Buyer or Seller Pay for Radon Mitigation?

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It was reported that radon is responsible for more than 21,000 American deaths every year. This is a huge number, considering that it only comprises American citizens. Aside from that, the World Health Organization stated that radon is also the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, whereas it is second overall only to smoking. 

With these facts, it is evident that radon is dangerous, so you have to eradicate it in your home, whether buying or selling one. When it comes to radon mitigation, who should pay for radon mitigation? Let’s all find out.

A House With Radon Mitigation System: Who Should Pay for It?

If you are buying a home or relocating to a new one, you must ensure that the house is radon-free. And if not, radon mitigation must be installed, especially if the result of radon tests are consistently high. But installing a radon mitigation system requires fees considering the materials used and the radon contractor who will install the system. 

The question is, should you, the buyer, pay for it? Or is it the seller responsible for the expenses?

Usually, it is the seller who pays for radon mitigation. The radon mitigation system is part of the sale, which helps sellers convince people to buy the house. If you are selling your home, you may conduct long-term radon testing before the date you want to sell the house. If the results are consistently high, you have to consider radon mitigation. 

If you are a buyer and the house has no mitigation system yet, you may also conduct radon testing and give the test results to the seller. The seller will only pay for a new mitigation system if the radon levels are over four pCi/L. Suppose you are within the safe range; it is up to you, as a buyer, to pay for mitigation.

Does Homeowners Insurance Cover Radon Tests?

Many homeowners consider houses with insurance, but do they cover radon tests? Unfortunately, the answer is no. High radon levels do not come from toxic spills or accidents. Therefore, homeowners insurance does not cover other radon testing or mitigation. Take note that you can only take advantage of  your insurance policy only in when damage is “sudden and accidental.” In this case, radon is not included.

Radon is a silent killer; that’s why you have to do all the things you can do to eradicate it. If you cannot install a radon mitigation system despite the high radon levels, there could be huge risks to several health concerns, including lung cancer. Therefore, make sure to have a radon mitigation system, whether buying or selling a house. Either way, you can help yourself, your loved ones, and those who will live in the house safe from the cancer-causing gas.

How Effective is Installing Drains With Valves in Radon Reduction?

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Radon can cause lung cancer, and that is a fact. Even the World Health Organization states that this radioactive gas is the second leading cause of lung cancer. Despite the millions of deaths, it can cause, radon reduction is often neglected. But if you care about your health and your loved ones, too, it’s time to mitigate radon in your home.

Addressing the Issue of Radon Entry Through Floor Drains

Since radon is a gas, it can pass through floor drains or a sump. As such, those structures can be exposed to what others put in the sewer. So how can you address this issue? Should you install drains with valves for radon reduction? The answer would be drain installation with a valve. Doing so allows the water to flow into the sumps and floor drain. The good thing about this technique is that the drain seals out radon, insects, and odors from the sub-floor area. 

What to Consider in Radon Reduction

In mitigating the cancer-causing gas, identifying the radon levels first is one of the first steps to determine which radon reduction technique is best for your home. Installing drains with valves for radon reduction might sound a good idea, but it’s not always the case. Before you consider any technique, it would be best to contact a professional radon contractor in your state to help you with radon testing.

There are two types of radon testing, short-term and long-term. Both tests can help you check the existence of radon, but long-term testing is ideal if you want to know the consistency of radon levels. Remember that radon fluctuates, which can be high or low, depending on several factors. With a long-term radon test, you can tell if installing a radon mitigation system is worth your money.

Simple Radon Mitigation Techniques

If you’re not ready for a drain installation, there are simple radon reduction techniques that you can try. Though they might be a temporary solution, they can still help you reduce radon. Here are some methods:

Sealing

Sealing the cracks and other openings that you can find in the foundation is one of the simplest ways to reduce radon. With this technique, you can limit the flow of radon into your home, which makes other radon reduction techniques more effective and cost-efficient.

Natural Ventilation

All homes have natural ventilation. You can take advantage of it to reduce radon in your home. Try opening windows, doors, and vents on the lower floors. Doing so increases the ventilation in your home.

Radon reduction might sound challenging, but with the guidance of professional radon contractors, you can mitigate the cancer-causing gas in no time. Suppose you have tested your home for radon, and the results say your home has high radon levels; you may try the simple mitigation techniques or consider installing a drain with a valve.

4 Major Causes of Radon in Your Home

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The COVID-19 pandemic started last year, but its effects are still felt up to these days. It has brought turmoil to the world, as many families have lost their loved ones. Not only that, but many people have lost their jobs. It is indeed fearful to acquire the deadly virus; that’s why everyone has to follow all the safety protocols to minimize its risks. Aside from the coronavirus, there are also silent killers that everyone should be aware of, which is radon, a cancer-causing gas.

Major Causes of Radon in Homes

Radon is a naturally occurring gas that’s why it can quickly enter your home. Although you cannot see, smell, or taste it, knowing its sources can help you mitigate it. The following are the significant causes of radon in both residential and commercial properties.

Cracks and Gaps

The cement in the home’s slab or basement can pose risks because of the cement’s porous nature. The cracks in the foundation and gaps in your flooring could be the entryway of radon, giving the gas an easy access. You can always filll every crack and gap with caulk but doing so is a temporary solution.

Rocks

Not all people know this, but rocks and stones consist of veins of radioactive materials which eventually decay into radon. As it’s released from stones outside, the radon in the rocks below your home’s foundation is released directly. It passes through small cracks into the house.

Soil

Radon is the decay of radioactive elements which naturally occur in rocks and stones. These materials can also be found in the soil. There is a high probability that there is radon in your home’s soil, and if so, the gas could find its way through cracks, gaps, and porous materials into your home. 

This is why radon is primarily high in underground basements. As such, it can rise into the house through the smallest of basement wall or floor cracks. Therefore, radon testing is essential to monitor the radon levels in your home.

Well Water

Not all homes have well water, but if your home has it nearby, know that it can also be a source of radon. Take note that well water is in close contact with rocks and soil. Since the radioactive material naturally occurs in soil, rocks and stones containing radon can be carried into your home.

Radon is no joke. Like COVID-19, it has affected millions of people. Some are aware of it, while others are not. That’s why raising awareness to promote radon mitigation is essential to avoid the increasing number of lung cancer patients. When mitigating radon, it is critical to identify the significant causes of radon in your home. Knowing where the gas comes from allows you to create better plans in eradicating this radioactive material.

Radon Facts: Things that Emit the Most Radiation at Home

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Invisible enemies like radon are more dangerous because you cannot see, touch, smell, or taste them. It might be a minor issue at home for some, but it is not for those families who have lost their loved ones due to lung cancer. Radon is the second-leading cause of lung cancer. To decrease one’s risk of this disease, radon mitigation should be considered in every household. If you are still unaware of radon, check out some radon facts that you will discover in this article.

What Emits the Most Radiation in Your House?

Have you ever wondered what causes radon in your home? Or those things that also emit the most radiation? Check out the following:

Cordless Baby Monitors

If you’re a busy mom or dad, baby monitors can help you take care of your children. They are powerful devices that you can place indoors to monitor your children’s whereabouts. However, they emit radiation which could pose health risks, and their radiation is more potent within short distances. If you cannot avoid using these devices, make sure not to put them next to or even near a toddler’s head.

E-readers and Tablets

E-readers and tablets are very helpful to those who love reading. Instead of carrying a book in a public place, bringing an e-reader or tablet is more convenient. But these devices are similar to laptops or smartphones that emit radiation. If you want to avoid exposing yourself to radiation, limit your time in using e-readers and tablets.

Microwave Ovens

Microwave ovens are very dependable because you can use them for cooking. Besides, they are often found in the kitchen because you can use them when reheating dinner. However, microwave ovens can emit radio waves with around 300 million cycles per second (300 MHz) to 3 GHz.

Smart Appliances

Smart appliances provide convenience. Because of the technology behind them, you can do specific tasks a lot easier. But you have to be careful when using them because some devices emit radiation emitted through WiFi and Bluetooth systems. If you can’t avoid using smart appliances, you may use smart fridges with large displays. Consider those that show the products you need without opening the door.

Radon is a dangerous gas, yet not all are aware of it. It’s time to educate yourself through the radon facts you can read online, in magazines, and in books. Once you fully understand what radon is, what it can do, and how to mitigate it, you can help in raising awareness about radon mitigation. Besides, learning what emits the most radon in your home can help you take the necessary steps to avoid increased radon levels in your home.

Radon Levels: Average, High, and Risky

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Radon could be everywhere, even in the places you think you’re safe from this gas. Unfortunately, some people don’t understand how dangerous this gas is. If you want to learn more about radon, you have to familiarize yourself with what it is and what radon levels are considered average, high, and risky. This way, you can take the necessary steps to mitigate this cancer-causing gas.

Understanding Radon

Radon gas is naturally occurring because it is a byproduct of the radioactive decay of Uranium in the soil. Radon levels vary depending on your geographic location. You’ll never know whether you are inhaling as much as 0.75 pCi/L.

Testing your home for radon is a must to ensure that you are achieving a radon-resistant home. Remember that the national average of outside radon levels is 0.4 pCL. According to the National Academy of Sciences, the outdoor radon levels cause approximately 800 of the 21,000 radon-induced lung cancer deaths.

Is There A Safe Radon Level?

Not everyone knows that radon gas is a carcinogen, meaning it can cause lung cancer. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, radon exposure reduces a person’s risk of lung cancer.  To avoid this risk, you have to mitigate radon in your home. The lower the radon level is, the lower your family’s risk of lung cancer.

Since radon is invisible, tasteless, and odorless, you have to conduct radon testing in your home. Short-term tests can help you identify the existence of the gas. For level monitoring, you have to consider long-term radon testing. Knowing the radon level can help you assess which radon mitigation techniques should be applied in your home.

Radon Levels

Radon levels can be categorized as low, average, high, and risky. An average person receives a higher radiation dose from the radon levels than their combined exposure to all other radiation sources. In other words, radon is more dangerous than other materials, and mitigating it is the only way to prevent radon’s adverse effects.

The following images are grabbed from EPA, which show how dangerous radon is for smokers and non-smokers:

Smokers

Non-smokers

When it comes to radon levels, zero is the safest. Suppose you have conducted radon testing, and through your monitoring, you’ve found out that your home has zero radon levels. That is good news for you and your family because it means you’re safe from the cancer-causing gas. But if it is not zero, then there’s a potential that it could go up. So before it’s too late, consider radon mitigation.

Radon is a dangerous gas because it is proven to be one of the causes of lung cancer. The World Health Organization recognizes this radioactive material as the second leading cause of lung cancer. Therefore, mitigating it is a must even if there are acceptable radon levels. There is no safe radon level because even small traces of radon can cause short-term adverse effects to people. If you want to reduce your risk of lung cancer, radon mitigation should be prioritized.