{"id":2112,"date":"2026-08-29T08:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-08-29T13:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/radonresources.com\/blog\/?p=2112"},"modified":"2026-08-25T10:04:49","modified_gmt":"2026-08-25T15:04:49","slug":"radon-resistant-construction-what-builders-install-and-what-to-ask-for-in-a-new-home","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/radonresources.com\/blog\/radon-resistant-construction-what-builders-install-and-what-to-ask-for-in-a-new-home\/","title":{"rendered":"Radon Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask for in a New Home"},"content":{"rendered":"<article>\n<h1>Radon-Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask For in a New Home<\/h1>\n<p>If you&#8217;re building a home, the most effective time to deal with radon is before the foundation is poured. Radon-resistant construction is a set of features a builder puts in during the build \u2014 a layer of gravel under the slab, plastic sheeting, a vent pipe running up through the house, and carefully sealed foundation openings \u2014 that together make it harder for radon gas to enter and easier to remove if it does. Adding these features during construction usually costs a few hundred dollars and far less than fixing a radon problem after you move in. It does not replace testing, though: the only way to confirm your finished home is below the action level is to test it.<\/p>\n<p>This guide explains what a radon-resistant system is made of, the difference between a passive and an active system, what you can specifically request from your builder, and how the whole thing fits with building codes.<\/p>\n<h2>What radon-resistant construction is<\/h2>\n<p>Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that seeps up from soil and rock and can collect inside homes. Because it has no color or smell, you can&#8217;t detect it without a test, and the U.S. EPA identifies long-term radon exposure as the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States. Radon is measured in picocuries per liter (pCi\/L), and EPA recommends fixing homes at or above 4 pCi\/L and considering action between 2 and 4 pCi\/L.<\/p>\n<p>Radon-resistant new construction, sometimes shortened to RRNC, takes the same physics used to fix an existing home and builds it into the structure from the start. The goal is to create a path for soil gas to move out from under the house rather than into it, and to close off the routes radon would otherwise use to get in. Many builders already install parts of this system for moisture control, so in some regions a good share of the work may already be standard practice.<\/p>\n<h2>The parts of a passive radon system<\/h2>\n<p>A standard radon-resistant system built during construction has five parts. EPA sometimes calls these the key features of a passive system, because when installed correctly they can reduce radon without any moving parts, relying on the natural upward draft inside the vent pipe.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>A gas-permeable layer.<\/strong> A 4-inch layer of clean, coarse gravel is placed under the slab. This gives soil gas room to move freely beneath the house instead of being forced up through the floor.<\/li>\n<li><strong>A soil-gas retarder.<\/strong> Heavy plastic sheeting, typically 6-mil polyethylene overlapped about 12 inches at the seams, is laid over the gravel before the slab is poured. It slows gas and moisture from passing up into the living space.<\/li>\n<li><strong>A vent pipe.<\/strong> A 3- or 4-inch solid PVC pipe runs from the gravel layer up through the house and out through the roof. This gives radon a dedicated route to the outdoors, above the roofline where it disperses safely.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Sealing and caulking.<\/strong> The builder seals openings, cracks, joints, and any sump or pipe penetrations in the foundation floor with polyurethane or silicone caulk. Sealing on its own is not a reliable fix for elevated radon, but as part of the system it closes off entry points and helps the vent pipe work.<\/li>\n<li><strong>An electrical rough-in.<\/strong> An electrical junction box or outlet is installed near the vent pipe, usually in the attic. It does nothing on its own, but it makes adding a fan later a quick job rather than a rewiring project.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h2>Passive versus active systems<\/h2>\n<p>A passive system uses only the construction features above. Warm air rising inside the vent pipe creates a slight draft that pulls soil gas up and out without a fan. Passive systems work well in many homes and cost the least, but the amount of radon they remove varies with the weather, the house design, and how the pipe is routed.<\/p>\n<p>An active system adds an in-line fan to the vent pipe. The fan continuously draws soil gas from beneath the slab and pushes it outside, which is why this approach is often called active soil depressurization, the same method used to fix most existing homes. Active systems are more consistent and more powerful than passive ones.<\/p>\n<p>The reason the passive-versus-active distinction matters at construction time is that a well-built passive system is designed to be upgraded. If the vent pipe and the electrical rough-in are already in place, converting to an active system usually means adding a fan and having it wired, which is a modest job. That is why the electrical box is worth insisting on even if you hope never to use it. You can read more about how these systems work in our <a href=\"\/radon-mitigation\/\">radon mitigation guide<\/a>.<\/p>\n<h2>What to ask your builder to include<\/h2>\n<p>Builders vary in how much radon-resistant work they do by default, so it helps to be specific in writing before construction starts. Reasonable things to request:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>A full passive system with all five features: the gravel layer, the plastic sheeting, a continuous vent pipe to the roof, sealed foundation openings, and the electrical rough-in for a future fan.<\/li>\n<li>A single, unbroken vent pipe routed up through the interior of the house rather than along an exterior wall, which tends to vent and draft more effectively.<\/li>\n<li>A sealed, gasketed lid on any sump pit, and sealed penetrations wherever pipes or conduit pass through the slab.<\/li>\n<li>Clear labeling of the vent pipe as a radon reduction system on each floor it passes through, so anyone working in the home later knows what it is.<\/li>\n<li>A radon test in the lowest livable level once the home is finished, or written confirmation that you&#8217;ll arrange one before or shortly after move-in.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>If you want a checklist to compare what different builders and contractors are offering, our <a href=\"\/resources\/radon-contractor-checklist\/\">radon contractor checklist<\/a> covers the questions worth asking.<\/p>\n<h2>A radon-resistant home still needs to be tested<\/h2>\n<p>Building in a radon system lowers the odds of a problem, but it does not guarantee your finished home is below 4 pCi\/L. Soil conditions, how carefully each step was done, and the specific design of the house all affect the result, and a passive system in particular can leave levels elevated in some homes. Testing after construction is the only way to know where your home actually stands.<\/p>\n<p>If a post-construction test comes back at or above the action level, the usual next step is to activate the passive system by adding a fan, then test again to confirm the fix worked. Post-mitigation testing matters because it verifies the system is doing its job. Our guides to <a href=\"\/radon-testing\/\">radon testing<\/a> and <a href=\"\/compare-radon-test-kits\/\">radon test kit options<\/a> walk through how to test a new home and interpret the result.<\/p>\n<h2>What it costs to build in versus fix later<\/h2>\n<p>Costs depend on the region, the foundation type, and the size and design of the house, so treat any figure as a rough guide rather than a quote. As one example, the Vermont Department of Health estimates it costs roughly $250 to $750 to build radon-resistant features into a new home, compared with roughly $1,500 to $2,500 to mitigate an existing home afterward. EPA makes the same general point without attaching a national price: including these features during construction typically costs the builder less than mitigating the home after it&#8217;s finished. The savings come mostly from doing the work while the slab is still open, before there are finished floors and walls to work around.<\/p>\n<h2>Building codes and standards<\/h2>\n<p>Radon-resistant construction is covered by recognized standards, and a growing number of states and local jurisdictions require some form of it in their building codes. The main references builders and code officials use are the ANSI\/AARST CCAH-2020 standard, <em>Reducing Radon in New Construction of One and Two Family Dwellings and Townhouses<\/em>, and Appendix F, <em>Radon Control Methods<\/em>, of the International Residential Code. EPA also points builders to ASTM standard E1465 for radon-resistant design. Whether these techniques are mandatory where you&#8217;re building depends on which codes your state or municipality has adopted, so it&#8217;s worth confirming local requirements with your builder or building department. Even where RRNC is not required, you can ask for it.<\/p>\n<h2>Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n<p><strong>Is a radon-resistant home guaranteed to have low radon?<\/strong><br \/>\nNo. These features reduce the likelihood and severity of a radon problem, but they don&#8217;t guarantee a result below the action level. Soil conditions and construction details vary from home to home. A test in the lowest livable level after the home is finished is the only way to confirm where your levels stand.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Can I add a radon system to a house that&#8217;s already built?<\/strong><br \/>\nYes. Existing homes are commonly fixed with an active soil depressurization system, which a certified mitigation contractor installs from the outside or through the slab. It generally costs more than building the features in during construction, but it&#8217;s effective. Our <a href=\"\/radon-mitigation\/\">mitigation guide<\/a> explains the process.<\/p>\n<p><strong>What&#8217;s the difference between a passive and an active radon system?<\/strong><br \/>\nA passive system uses the vent pipe and construction features alone, relying on natural airflow to carry soil gas out. An active system adds a fan that continuously pulls gas from under the slab and exhausts it outside. Active systems remove more radon and perform more consistently, and a passive system built with an electrical rough-in can usually be upgraded to active by adding a fan.<\/p>\n<p><strong>My builder says the home already has radon features. What should I check?<\/strong><br \/>\nAsk which of the five parts are included \u2014 the gravel layer, the plastic sheeting, the vent pipe to the roof, sealed foundation openings, and the electrical rough-in for a fan. Confirm the vent pipe is continuous to the roof and, ideally, that a post-construction test is planned. Many builders install some pieces for moisture control without completing the full system.<\/p>\n<h2>What this means if you&#8217;re building a home<\/h2>\n<p>Radon-resistant construction is one of the least expensive forms of insurance you can build into a new home. A passive system of gravel, sheeting, a vent pipe, sealed openings, and an electrical rough-in gives radon a way out and leaves you ready to add a fan if you ever need one. Put your requests in writing before the slab goes in, keep the option to activate the system open, and plan to test once you&#8217;re in. If you&#8217;d like help evaluating a builder&#8217;s plan or finding a certified professional, <a href=\"\/free-quote\/\">request a free quote<\/a> to connect with a radon specialist in your area.<\/p>\n<h2>Sources and further reading<\/h2>\n<ul>\n<li>U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/radon\/how-address-radon-when-building-new-home\">How to Address Radon When Building a New Home<\/a><\/li>\n<li>U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/radon\/radon-resistant-construction-basics-and-techniques\">Radon-Resistant Construction Basics and Techniques<\/a><\/li>\n<li>U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/radon\/building-codes-and-standards-radon-resistant-new-construction-rrnc\">Building Codes and Standards for Radon-Resistant New Construction<\/a><\/li>\n<li>New York State Department of Health, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.health.ny.gov\/environmental\/radon\/rrnc.htm\">Radon-Resistant New Construction<\/a><\/li>\n<li>Vermont Department of Health, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.healthvermont.gov\/sites\/default\/files\/document\/env-hh-radon-building-radon-resistant.pdf\">Building Radon Resistant<\/a><\/li>\n<li>ANSI\/AARST CCAH-2020, <a href=\"https:\/\/standards.aarst.org\/CCAH-2020\/20\/\">Reducing Radon in New Construction of One and Two Family Dwellings and Townhouses<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><em>This article is for general educational purposes and is not medical advice. Radon exposure is associated with an increased long-term risk of lung cancer, but individual risk depends on many factors. Reducing elevated radon can lower future exposure; it cannot undo exposure already received. For guidance on your specific situation, consult a certified radon professional and, for health questions, a qualified medical provider.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/article>\n<div class=\"22ed2311db4594d186c610eb4750f4e6\" data-index=\"2\" style=\"float: none; margin:10px 0 10px 0; text-align:center;\">\n<a href=\"https:\/\/radonresources.com\/glp.php?camp=bc1\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/radonresources.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/02\/RR-Magnet-Lead-Image.jpg\" alt=\"RR lead magnet\"><\/a>\n<\/div>\n\n<div style=\"font-size: 0px; height: 0px; line-height: 0px; margin: 0; padding: 0; clear: both;\"><\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Radon-Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask For in a New Home If you&#8217;re building a home, the most effective time to deal with radon is before the foundation is poured. Radon-resistant construction is a set of features a builder puts in during the build \u2014 a layer of gravel under the slab, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2113,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[83],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2112","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-real-estate-home-buying"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.3 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Radon Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask for in a New Home - Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/radonresources.com\/blog\/radon-resistant-construction-what-builders-install-and-what-to-ask-for-in-a-new-home\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Radon Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask for in a New Home - Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Radon-Resistant Construction: What Builders Install and What to Ask For in a New Home If you&#8217;re building a home, the most effective time to deal with radon is before the foundation is poured. 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